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Nassfeld: Frontier Fantasies

Nassfeld: Frontier Fantasies

I flung open the window to the balcony of my room in the Gartnerkofel hotel, breathed in the icy air, and peered out over a vast forest of heavily snow-laden trees. It was like waking up in Narnia. The hotel is built at an altitude of 1500 m, so for the first time on a […]

Book Review: Upriver With Nick Thorpe

Book Review: Upriver With Nick Thorpe

“These are the stories of the people of the Danube, and their dark dreamy river,” announces Nick  Thorpe at the beginning of a work…

Saalbach’s Romantic Mountain Retreat

Saalbach’s Romantic Mountain Retreat

I kicked the new snow off our boots and laid the skis against the dark wood of the Pfefferalm hut. Inside an open fire was…

Caught  Between East & West

Caught Between East & West

On the first Sunday of November, 70,000 Moldovans gathered at a rally in the capital Chisinau. They were pledging support for the government’s pro-western policies…

Tenerife: Eccentricity of Nature

Tenerife: Eccentricity of Nature

The final stretch of single track back to the Tenerife village of La Guancha plunged down steeply over loose rocks. It was a hurtling, stomach-lurching,…

Norway’s Harsh Beauty

Norway’s Harsh Beauty

I teetered apprehensively at the edge of the pebbled beach, still wearing a woollen hat and thick hoodie…

Book Review: Media Madness in New Croatia

Book Review: Media Madness in New Croatia

“What’s up?“ “A blockhead is driving me nuts. I recommended him as a correspondent in Iraq. He’s gone…

Riding for Erasmus

Riding for Erasmus

A dozen sturdy bikes whirr past on the sun-scorched path that weaves through the floodplains forest of the…

Learning to Go With the Flow

Learning to Go With the Flow

Just 11 years after the “flood of the century” devastated parts of Upper and Lower Austria, Austrians once…

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