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Croatia EU
While some see the sunny side of Europe, others see pure propaganda
01/02/2012

A popular TV series cuts to an ad: A young Croatian family in a car, meandering through the idyllic Tuscan landscape. At a crossroads, they ask two carabinieri for directions. When the police officers realise where the lost travellers are from, one of  them starts gushing about how the Croatian prosciutto is better than the Italian – he should know, he spends his summer holidays in Croatia!

Lech
Freeskiers, families and the snow-crazed elite relish the soft powder and hearty cuisine in Lech: Christian Cummins examines what makes this resort so unique
01/02/2012

It had been snowing heavily for three days and three nights in Lech am Arlberg, a ski village in the far west of Austria. The main street through the village was frozen white and the parked cars were so laden with snow that they looked like a row of soft white pillows.

Nikolaus Pelinka and Alexander Wrabetz
The Austrian public broadcaster has long been under party influence. Now, journalists fight back.
01/02/2012

It was perhaps the Austrian broadcasting corporation’s (ORF) biggest hit: Launched before Christmas, the reality TV show “Who Wants To Be A Media Exec?” kept audiences in Austria – and even Germany – under a spell until 18 Jan., when their favourite candidate, the dashing and dastardly Nikolaus Pelinka, quit the

01 Gustav Klimt
Vienna begins a year of celebration of the controversial artist who was the guiding force behind the Vienna Secession
01/02/2012

In his time, many people didn’t know what to make of Gustav Klimt: To the romantics he was trapped in ornamentation, to the purists in symbols. He was called a “purveyor of perversities,” yet also “provincial”. Traditionalists dismissed him as decadent, once naturalist described him as merely “irritating”.  

03 queue at the Gruft
With their numbers swelling since the financial crisis, Vienna’s homeless find refuge at the Gruft on Mariahilferstraße
01/12/2011

The descent into homelessness can be dizzyingly fast, explains social worker Susanne Peter, but the climb back out is painstakingly slow.

Protesters of different ages and classes rub shoulders on Mariahilferstraße | Photo: Peter Diller
The wave of citizens' protests across the world has reached Vienna, where local and global grievances go hand in hand
02/11/2011

Emerging from the escalator at the Westbahnhof U-Bahn station, the crowd surged forward, carrying us directly into the swelling group of activists. 

Protesters stress saudi women's rights abuses | Photo: David Reali
King Abdulaziz courts controversy with Vienna centre for interreligious dialogue
27/10/2011

While a duo of lute and violin played a solemn tune accompanying an Arabic song, Austria’s foreign minister Michael Spindelegger leaned over to say something to the Saudi Foreign Minister Prince Saud Alfaisal. That was all it took. Suddenly, the music was lost in a cacophony of flashing cameras and clicking shutters.  

Indeed, this was the perfect photo op to accompany suspicions of ulterior motives behind the Saudi king’s giant investment in Vienna. 

Many professionals have sacrificed their status at home to marry an Austrian. They often face an uneasy welcome
27/10/2011
 

Alan had a comfortable life working as a manager for a packing company in Mexico City, earning the equivalent of €3,500 a month. As a young engineer, he was building a successful career doing what he loved most. Then, one night at a trendy club in an exclusive neighbourhood, he met a striking young woman who would turn his world upside down. 

Stéphane Hessel speaking in the Austrian parliament | Photo: Herbert Neubauer / APA
Stéphane Hessel calls for outrage
27/10/2011

On 14 Oct., a Friday evening, there was not a single spare seat in the council chamber of the Austrian Parliament. But it wasn’t politicians. Instead-, the chamber was occupied by a very mixed public audience – ranging from elegantly coiffed society ladies to flat-capped young hipsters.

Anthony Songi, victim of beating | Photo: David Reali
A racially-motivated beating of a newspaper salesman raises troubling questions about tracking racism
03/10/2011

Toni walks down a long hall in the Vienna courthouse (Landesgericht für Strafsachen), his regard fixed ahead of him, his gait relaxed, a slight tremble in his hand. At the end of the hall his two assailants from the night of his beating stand waiting to enter the courtroom. As he enters with a solemn face and walks through the crowd of five defendants, their eyes follow him as he sits down outside the courtroom for the hearing. They haven't seen him since the early morning hours of Feb.

rt historian and newly appointed Rector Eva Blimlinger | Photo: Akademie der Bildenden Künste
Even with four women now leading Austrian universities, to many, real progress still seems far off
03/10/2011

Only a little more than a year ago, not a single woman held a Rector’s chair at an Austrian university.  Now there are four. 

Crunchtime
Shady lobbyists and greedy ministers: Unravelling corruption scandals call for more transpare ncy in Austrian politics
03/10/2011

Four-hundred pages was the length of the report issued by forensic experts in August this year, identifying the extent of dubious payments and contracts conducted by Telekom Austria, the country’s largest telecom provider and a former public utility that is still 28 per cent state-owned.

Hans Makart's The Five Senses painted on commision but never soled | Photo: Belvedere Museum
Twin exhibitions re-examine the legacy of an artistic modernist who once defined the culture of the imperial capital
20/09/2011

An intense conversation is going on right now between two of Vienna’s major museums, the Belvedere and the Wien Museum in the Künstlerhaus. The subject: a once celebrated painter, designer, decorator and educator.  

The MAK's new director Christoph Thun-Hohenstein at cafe Prückel opposite the museum | Photo: David Reali
Lawyer, diplomat & art lover Christoph Thun-Hohenstein wants to reinvent the MAK and lead it into the 21st century
14/09/2011

New York, summer 2007. After eight years as director of the Austrian Cultural Forum, the government’s flagship for promoting Austrian contemporary art in America, Christoph Thun-Hohenstein had clearly won over the city’s cultural elite, not to mention his own staff. Observing him as a summer intern, it was easy to see why.

A skull from a mass grave at the Prijedor exhumation site | Photo:  Vladimir Tomić
At Sarajevo’s Film Festival, politics trumps glamour
12/09/2011

The bar of Kino Kriterion is brimming with people; the cool of its chessboard floor tiles and monochromatic, 1960s interior is matched by the crowd: little black dresses, angular haircuts, scarlet lipstick. This invitation-only reception could almost be taking place at the Berlinale, were it not for the cheap high-heels and unpretentious atmosphere.

With the economy teetering and macho at last held at bay, women may now be the most determined “agents of change”
17/08/2011

Are women in Europe on the verge of becoming an engine for political change? In economic-development circles, experience and common sense suggest that progress, accountability, and hard work start with and depend on women. Micro-credits, for example, are much more efficient when women receive and repay them. Perhaps because they bear children and must find the means to feed them, women are now perceived as the best and most determined “agents of change.”

Women at a marketplace in Sofia | Photo: Dragana Zarkovic-Obradovic
Western Europe welcomes Balkan women ready to work abroad – a dream that can become a nightmare for their families
11/08/2011

Although she celebrated her 29th birthday only a week ago, Alina looks as if she is in her forties. Her straggly hair, bitten nails and swollen, constantly blinking eyes do her no favours and give the impression of a haunted person.

“All he needs to do is to make sure the girls are clean, fed and do their homework, but it’s still too much for him,” she says of her husband. “It’s easier to whore around, drink and gamble. With my money.”

One of many murals commisioned in the Soviet era by Yugoslav dictator Tito | Photo: Chris Cummins
After 20 years of independence, Slovenes are proud of their success
11/08/2011

“Nothing really happens here anymore,” says Janez Fajfar with evident pride. Slovenia, the most successful European country to emerge from communism, is conspicuously absent from global headlines – and proud of it.

The courtyard at the Heuriger Schübel-Auer in Nußdorf, Vienna | Photo: courtesy of Schübel-Auer
Summer is the season for Vienna’s local wines in courtyard gardens and terraces overlooking the sloping vineyards of the Kahlenberg
11/08/2011

It was a warm evening in early June as a friend and I climbed down from the bus at the top of the Kahlenberg, an ancient mountain 484 meters high, in the northeastern foothills of the Alps. Here from the broad terraces of the tourism university Modul, the entire city of Vienna lays spread out before you, and on the clearest days even parts of Lower Austria.

“Competitiveness” dominates talks in Vienna during the World Economic Forum on Europe and Central Asia
01/07/2011

It seemed oddly fitting that on the 50th anniversary of the East-West Summit between John F. Kennedy and Nikita Khrushchev, Vienna’s Hofburg would once again play host to the World Economic Forum on Europe and Central Asia. June 8 and 9 was an assessment of just how far constellations have shifted since – with a Berlin Wall rising and falling, and the Soviet system vanishing from the world stage. The penetrating light of U.S. power has also dimmed a bit, and at this occasion, kept its glimmering shine in the background.

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