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Restaurant Reviews

Albertina Passage
Wien gains a dinner Passage: finally a club for grownups
01/02/2012

No matter what crowd launches a club in Vienna, it gradually gets younger. The original patrons retreat to small cocktail bars where the music is moderated and the prospect of conversation still possible. 

Eatalico
A new pizzeria on Praterstraße has a mission: to prove that good taste can come in large packages, and that italian food can be sleek and modern, and still a feast: Bon appetito!
01/02/2012

Now that the holiday season is behind us, Vienna has rung in the new year, and the first snowfalls have dusted the city with a wintery nimbus – which provides the perfect backdrop for gazing out the window and pondering life’s eternal questions…

Such as, Does this town really need another pizzeria?

05 Red Room
Expert mixology meets a low key DJ and ‘über-hip’ décor
01/12/2011

Who’s for the Red Room? In all probability, if you’re a well-heeled expat with a cushy number at the UN and a penchant for skinny ladies wrapped in tight denim, you most certainly are.

05 Mraz & Sohn
Enticed by sesame scallop soup and sweet, soft strangolapreti, connoisseurs fit right in at this upscale Brigittenau restaurant
01/12/2011

When you venture away from the Ring in search of a new restaurant, you enter a strange mixture between fascination and fear. Stumbling on Mraz & Sohn in Brigittenau in the 20th District one Wednesday evening, we found a bit of both. 

Food friends: Owner Fridolin Fink (l) and co-founder Isamu Hohenegger | Photo: Katharina Gossow
A small eatery in Mariahilf dishes out grand flavors, with an acquired taste for minimalist interior design
28/10/2011

In my travels, I have always enjoyed stumbling upon restaurants installed into unlikely places. My list includes churches, petrol stations, windmills, abandoned train cars, and auto repair shops. In fact, it seems that the stranger the predecessor, the greater the allure. 

Mouths water at the fresh fish terrine at the Karmeliterviertel' s new pride | Photo: David Reali
Glacial waters bring the freshest fish to market at the Karmeliterviertel’s newest upper-crust gourmet bistro
04/10/2011

The Marktachterl on the Karmelitermarkt used to be a worn and friendly Gasthaus that was a favourite for breakfast. Next door was a little fish market that too has since shut its doors, meaning an end to fresh fish in the neighborhood. It seems like a lot to regret.

Platter for two with Key Wot beef and more | Photo: David Reali
When retracing the evolutionary steps of cuisine, it’s no surprise to be led to the birthplace of man … Ethiopia
30/09/2011

This was not a restaurant, or at least it didn’t feel like one.  Red upholstered benches lined the walls and brass lamps lit up cozy eating corners. The ceiling fans gave a most welcome movement to the stagnant, heavy air as the heat on this particular evening made it seem as if we really were in Ethiopia. It was the aptly named Ethiopian Restaurant, at Währinger Straße 15 in the 9th District, one of the newest, and surely the most exotic, offerings on the Vienna scene.

05 Yak & Yeti
An earthy and authentic escape for Eastern cuisine
01/09/2010

Dim lighting can be enticingly cozy, and a Nepalese restaurant in Vienna’s 6th District has taken this concept to the extreme. The first task after taking a seat in the courtyard of Yak & Yeti is to allow your eyes to adjust. I squinted to find a companion in the summer evening dusk who sat at a table at the back of the Schanigarten. A glass awning protruding from the building, from which the only suggestion of light emanated from wall-mounted candles, roofed the tables.

05 Tewa am Karmelitermarkt
Vitality spreads to the 2nd District with the opening of Tewa’s second location
01/05/2010

Just across the Donaukanal from Schottenring, concealed in the ancient corner of Vienna’s 2nd District, the quaint and quiet Karmelitermarkt is fast becoming the new “in” place to be. Awakening from decades of Dornröschen sleep, the market is like a village market square in the middle of the city, and its obvious charms are making it a magnet for Vienna’s post-millennium bohemia. And at long last, it is emerging from the shadows of its famous sibling – the thriving Naschmarkt to the south.

05 At Eight Restaurant
A newly renovated restaurant dresses up for the evening with an interior design complementing an imaginative kitchen
01/05/2010

‘Casual luxury’ may at first sound contradictory. Luxurious fine dining seems doomed to humorless waiters, stiff interiors and uninventive – if experienced – cooks and kitchens. Especially in Vienna, where tradition often takes precedence over originality, one may have become accustomed to the charm of the haughty tuxedo-clad waiters of Kaffeehäuser and consider eccentricity to be found elsewhere.

05 Tartine Landaise
The sort of place that might inspire you to bring along a book and snack on croissants
01/04/2010

Sunday night and nothing in the fridge. And not all that much in the pocket. Need to go out, but reality isn’t going to leave much room for wretched excess... It’s a night for Le Bol. This authentic French bistro on Vienna’s Neuer Markt offers the perfect compromise: It’s delicious, it’s simple, and both you and your wallet leave happy.

09 restaurant Aurelius
Adriatic cuisine that Marcus Aurelius might have loved
01/03/2010

The great emperor Marcus Aurelius – who died in Vienna in 180 AD – had a reputation for being a connoisseur of the pleasures of the table. Not only did he thoroughly enjoy his food, he was an unashamed enthusiast of all culinary delights, considering fine wine among his top priorities, to which he undoubtedly applied the measured judgments of his Stoic philosophy.

Grießnockerlsuppe, Tafelspitzsulz mit Zwiebelringen and Mohr im Hemd; old Beisl charm, untarnished by the pressures of commercialism and so pungent Johann Nestroy could not resist
01/02/2010

As we headed for Zu den 3 Hacken at Singerstrasse 28 in Vienna’s 1st District, all we were looking for was the cosy atmosphere of an old Viennese Beisl, its traditional cuisine, and it’s low key comfort. No one had mentioned that it came with legends. Embarrassing to admit, as my literary dining companion Ms. Parker and I are both writers. But there you have it.

05 Liounge
A relief from the standard “Europeanized” fare of crispy-fried chicken doused in generic sweet and sour sauce: Liounge on Gumpendorferstrasse
01/02/2010

For those of us who associate Chinese food in Vienna with the standard “Europeanized” fare of crispy-fried chicken doused in generic sweet and sour sauce, kraut-stuffed spring rolls and fried rice that looks like Risi-Pisi, Liounge offers an intriguing alternative. Located in the up and coming culinary mile that is Gumpendorferstrasse, this stylish restaurant is sure to win over the hearts and stomachs of foodies looking for a more authentic ethic dining experience.

05 Le Ciel
Rooftop restaurant Le Ciel offers layers of subtle elegance
01/12/2009

Elegance is born of craftsmanship, in beauty that seems effortless. At Le Ciel, the culinary complement to the five-star Grand Hotel on Kärnterring, elegance is combined with an expertise that only fine enterprises can afford.

Meaning “the sky” in French, Le Ciel indeed rests high on the seventh floor of the 19th century hotel, above the twinkling Christmas lights that cascade from buildings in the first district this time of year. Having first been built as a maison meublée, it today still reflects the essence of the imperial age.

05 Le Cèdre
A culinary escape to the Middle-East: couscous, color, & quality
01/11/2009

Walking down the tree-lined Ausstellungsstraße cutting through Vienna’s 2nd District, you might be too repulsed by the gaudiness of the neighboring Wurstelprater amusement park to think of fine dining. Multi-colored lights of the Giant Wheels and haunted houses flash high above the newly built Admiral Casino standing in all its kitschy glory at the beginning of the street – not to mention the giant pig that houses a Bankomat machine near the underground station a bit further down.

05 Frank Gruber’s Restaurant Vincent
Fine dining in a reimagined traditional setting, where great wine accompanies eye-catching arrangements
01/06/2009

Looking for a different aesthetic, my literary dining companion Dorothy Parker and I followed a tip and headed for Restaurant Vincent at Große Pfarrgasse 7 in Vienna’s 2nd District. Once a 70’s hangout for student philosophers (in vino veritas, etc), the place has since been transformed into a decidedly up-market venue for fine food in a dramatic setting of post-modern interior design.

05 Benkei's Sushi Bar
Sushi-lovers rejoice in Benkei’s relaxed traditional atmosphere
01/03/2009

Benkei Okasan has a proud smile on her face watching her kids run one of the city’s best sushi restaurants located in Vienna’s 3rd district.

“Good day. Nice to see you,” she greets her guests as she takes off her shoes at the corner of your Tatami room to pour you a cup of green tea.

Overseeing the family restaurant with a kind but watchful eye, Benkei Okasan has helped her kids own and run the leading Sushi restaurant in Vienna for the past decade.

Good Wine, Mouthwatering Steak and Old Ornaments Make For a Delightful Evening - Not to Mention the Eventful Toilets
18/02/2009

It was a cold night. The smell of snow filled the air. The hazed windshield of my car only confirmed the presence of winter when the blurry sign "Deutsch-Wagram" emerged from the mist. There it was, 10 km north of Vienna, where the charming -- and thoroughly eccentric -- restaurant Marchfelderhof basks in the glow of the streetlights.

Welcome to Ilona’s Stueberl, where pasta is nowhere to be found
02/12/2008

The three of us, my aunt, sister and I, were on a mission. We needed to find a good and decently priced place for dinner without going to our usual haunts (Café d’Europe on the Graben or Café le Bol) and still have enough time to make it to our 20:30 movie.

Walking out of the UBahn, the words chianti, and prosecco leaped out from a hand written tablet. Aha! We quickly made our way to an empty table. But what was that waiter saying? I struggled to dust off my Italian…

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