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Gretchen Gatzke

Stories from Gretchen Gatzke

Brief Encounters: Feb, 2012
01/02/2012

I was sitting on the tram at Westbahnhof waiting for it to leave, when I looked at the departure time screen and realized I would be sitting there for 20 minutes unless I wanted to walk ... some sort of delay or other.

Bored with Sudoku on my cell phone, I looked out the window. Standing outside the Tabak, dressed in U.S. Army garb and smoking a cigarette was a man moonwalking. 

Mouths water at the fresh fish terrine at the Karmeliterviertel' s new pride | Photo: David Reali
Glacial waters bring the freshest fish to market at the Karmeliterviertel’s newest upper-crust gourmet bistro
04/10/2011

The Marktachterl on the Karmelitermarkt used to be a worn and friendly Gasthaus that was a favourite for breakfast. Next door was a little fish market that too has since shut its doors, meaning an end to fresh fish in the neighborhood. It seems like a lot to regret.

Platter for two with Key Wot beef and more | Photo: David Reali
When retracing the evolutionary steps of cuisine, it’s no surprise to be led to the birthplace of man … Ethiopia
30/09/2011

This was not a restaurant, or at least it didn’t feel like one.  Red upholstered benches lined the walls and brass lamps lit up cozy eating corners. The ceiling fans gave a most welcome movement to the stagnant, heavy air as the heat on this particular evening made it seem as if we really were in Ethiopia. It was the aptly named Ethiopian Restaurant, at Währinger Straße 15 in the 9th District, one of the newest, and surely the most exotic, offerings on the Vienna scene.

At the Borromäus live char spend their remaining days in a tank in the foyer | Photo: David Reali
When visiting the Borromäus restaurant in the Imperial Riding School Hotel you will experience more than you might imagine
13/04/2011

Ishmael Beah, author of A Long Way Gone: Memoirs of a Boy Soldier, spoke at the Heeresgeschichtliches Museum (Military History Museum) on Feb. 2 | Photo: David Reali
Ishmael Beah, a former child soldier, shares with the Vienna school students how the cultural traditions of his village gave him courage, strength and hope to face the future
28/03/2011

On Feb. 2, Ishmael Beah sat down between two panelists at the Military History Museum, a big smile stretching from ear to ear.Beah is a survivor.

A buffet of Thali, Rogan Josh, chicken Tandoori and Murgh Madras an evening at Bombay  Photo: David Reali
Capsicum, cumin, coconut and currys: the aromas of the East waft to the West
10/02/2011

 

Warmth! That was our immediate reaction to the Bombay interior. A most welcome warmth after a walk through the windy cold of Vienna’s seventh district, and the piquant aromas of capsicum, cumin, cloves, coconut and of course, curry. Even the walls were a fiery red.

Celebrated travel writer Duncan Smith at Vienna's British Bookshop Photo: David Reali
In a recent visit to Vienna, Urban Explorer Duncan Smith reveals what it takes to discover the true soul of a city
15/12/2010

 

An “urban explorer” is how Duncan J.D. Smith defined himself. After a life-time of foreign adventures and some two decades of travel writing that has included the acclaimed Only In… series, Smith was at Vienna’s British Bookshop for an evening of slides and stories for an audience of several dozen friends and fans.

 

Tour guide Friederike Kammer-Hirsch Photo: David Reali
Christkindlmärkte have been part of Viennese life since the 1600s: a visit with tour guide Friederike Kammer-Hirsch
06/12/2010

November. A grey, wet and depressing month in most places. Nothing happens in November, just people walking briskly, bundled up in down jackets and scarves that wrap practically around their entire head. Wind blowing, light, stinging drizzle and, to make it even worse, ominous clouds that seem permanently draped over every rooftop

But we’re not in most places. We’re in Vienna. November here is not a month where people sit and wait for the holidays to begin. The celebrating has already begun.

02 Cafe 1
For centuries, coffeehouses have been at the center of Vienna’s social and cultural life but their existence is now being challenged by rising rents and stricter smoking regulations
01/11/2010

It is early Sunday afternoon, Oct. 31 at the Café Wortner in the 4th district, one of Vienna’s most appealing traditional cafes, recently voted “Best Kaffeehaus in Vienna” by the Chamber of Commerce (WKO) earlier this year. Partly it’s the setting, set back behind a fountain in a small triangular pocket park on the Wiedner Hauptstraße; partly it’s the décor of warm wood paneling and cushioned booths, in a warren of friendly spaces. A handful of guests are scattered through the Kaffeehaus, with a coffee at hand, perhaps a Kapuzziner or a kleiner Brauner.

05 party-goer
All night transportation is convenient for everyone, not just the party-goers, workaholics and night owls
01/10/2010

On Sept. 3 the metro stations were crowded; boisterous groups, drinks in hand, laughing and calling out, voices echoing off the hard marble walls. Some sat on the floor, cross legged or legs stretched out, leaning against a pillar, pouring cocktails out of a thermos, sharing a pizza. It was one big party, everyone relishing the newly-anointed convenience of a 24-hour subway.

Over the loudspeakers, a woman’s voice boomed, “Die ganze Nacht gehört Ihnen!” – The entire night is yours! And this crowd didn’t want to miss it.

09 Vestibuel
Vestibül merges appearance and taste to | create an elegant dining experience
01/10/2010

Stepping through the grand archway at the Vestibül is a trip back in time: Tucked under the grand staircase on the south wing of the Burgtheater, the year is 1874, and Emperor Franz Joseph had just gifted Vienna with another of the great monuments to architectural history that graced his new Ringstraße. Here in a pastiche of style elements that was neo-Baroque, ceilings and alcoves are decorated in bas-relief, while marble columns, vaulted ceilings and sculpted pediments lend a classical setting for the ornate and florid atmosphere.

Can new platforms deliver information in an ever fragmented world?
01/10/2010

Social media are everywhere, but developing effective interfaces with traditional media still remains elusive. The digital divide must be overcome, experts said through crowdsourcing, citizen reporting and other tools that allow ordinary people to complement professional reporting, not replace it. “The media need to interact with the consumers,” Hannes Ametsreiter, CEO of Telekom Austria, added.

“Social Media have surpassed pornography,” said Errol Barnett, CNN anchorman and the panel’s moderator, acknowledging the increasing importance of new media outlets. “People are now more interested in playing with each other than with themselves,” he added.

The media may not be providing the public with the information it needs
01/10/2010

The news that matters, said Harvard’s Alex Jones, is still produced by newspapers, which have now lost half of their journalistic muscle. And while surviving papers still make money, “you cannot avoid damage if you cut that muscle away.”

“We are losing the thriving news organizations that share a passion to cover the world in a fierce, independent way,” agreed Charles M. Sennott, editor-in-chief of the Global Post, an online news service that grew out of the area of tension between a downturn in foreign coverage and the persistent need for international news.

Reporters continue to systematically lose their lives on the job
01/10/2010

Fifty-four journalists have been killed on the job so far this year, according to a media Death Watch maintained by the International Press Institute (IPI).

Calling it a ‘similarly grim toll,’ IPI interim-director Alison Bethel McKenzie, told the 60th annual IPI World Congress that the death rate in the first  eight months of 2010 is only four fewer than the same period last year.

“Journalists continue to systematically lose their lives to conflict, militants, paid thugs, governments, drug dealers, corrupt politicians, unscrupulous security officers and others,” Bethel McKenzie said.

05 Cuadro
The castle square of Alt-Margareten: a gastronome´s four-in-one experience, to impress any guest and satisfy any picky eater
01/07/2010

Three starving Americans on a Monday evening were in big trouble. Not only were we starving, we were indecisive. One Vienna first-timer craved a Schnitzel. A degenerate European craved a fat, juicy steak. And I, well, I had the feeling that a big plate of tapas would do me just fine.

09 Michael Fenner and Amanda Osborne
Slapstick dialogue, witty one-liners and controversial romance; a sex comedy without the sex
01/07/2010

When Screwball comedy became famous in the 1930’s, it opened a new chapter for theater. It created a female character rarely seen in the history of Western entertainment, one that dominates men and challenges the concept of maleness. It introduced unlikely situations between characters and brought in a fast-paced dialogue never before seen.

08 Austrian American Football team
Cheerleaders, loud music and testosterone-fueled giants; the perfect way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon
01/06/2010

It’s Sunday and the sun is shining as I wait for my companions at the Heiligenstadt station. Football fans (that is, American football, not real football) sporting purple and yellow articles of clothing are all around; women, men, tall, fat, tattooed and hippified. Every sort imaginable is there, joining together to celebrate the fun of the rough-and-tumble sport.

06 Jeff Sturgeon
The 100th anniversary of Samuel Clemens’ death was celebrated with stories, laughs and hopes
01/05/2010

The chandeliers grew dim and the murmur of the crowd dulled to quiet whispers at the Presseclub Concordia on Apr. 21. It was the 100th anniversary of Samuel Clemens’ death, the man better known as Mark Twain, who had come to Vienna in 1897, coincidentally the same year as the opening of the Riesenrad. He came to study the ways of the Austrians as new material for his books, but mainly he came to acquire top-of-the-line piano instruction for his daughter Clara.

12 Parisian Student
Four extra days and hundreds of euros later, a student from Paris got more than she bargained for when she came to Vienna
01/05/2010

Yet another twisted tale of volcano madness. It was Wednesday, April 14th, 22:25 and my friend Roxane was arriving in Vienna from Paris. She was only staying until Sunday, but the trip was well worth it… we hadn’t seen each other in over seven months, even though we live only a two-hour flight apart. I’d been warned she was completely broke, so our four days together would have to be spent on activities that didn’t require a lot of cash. No problem.

05 Tartine Landaise
The sort of place that might inspire you to bring along a book and snack on croissants
01/04/2010

Sunday night and nothing in the fridge. And not all that much in the pocket. Need to go out, but reality isn’t going to leave much room for wretched excess... It’s a night for Le Bol. This authentic French bistro on Vienna’s Neuer Markt offers the perfect compromise: It’s delicious, it’s simple, and both you and your wallet leave happy.

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