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Land of the Wild Geese: Visiting Schwarzenberg Park

Land of the Wild Geese: Visiting Schwarzenberg Park

Tram 43 cuts like a knife across the 17th District of Hernals, from the Gürtel out to the edge of the city. Although the journey holds little of real interest (except for the Art Nouveau Jörgerbad and the Kalvarienberg pilgrimage church) the terminus at Neuwaldegg conceals something very special.   Two towering obelisks Just beyond […]

The Yugosphere: Not Just Balkan Nostalgia

The Yugosphere: Not Just Balkan Nostalgia

It is Saturday night. Boys in tight T-shirts and close-cut military hairstyles throw around boisterous jokes, encouraged by shots of schnapps they have just taken. Tipsy girls in miniskirts teeter under an onslaught of laughter. This is a common scene anywhere in the city on any given Saturday night. Tonight, however, we are on Ottakringer […]

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