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Stuwerviertel: Creating Campus Life

Stuwerviertel: Creating Campus Life

It’s a tricky business to reinvent a city district. The resurrection of the Gasometer – with a shopping mall and apartment buildings – more than a decade ago aimed to revitalise the 11th District. But somehow, the project never quite took off, leaving a mediocre shopping mall and plenty of empty apartments. The prospects for […]

Campusviertel: Student Life Meets the Bourgeoisie

Campusviertel: Student  Life Meets the Bourgeoisie

The 8th District is (after the inner city) the smallest, richest and oldest of all the Vienna Bezirke – and that’s referring to the people not the buildings.  But the northern Grätzl is academics’ country – bounded by Alser Straße, Landesgerichtsstraße (a.k.a. Zweierlinie, the former route of the Nr. 2 tram, torn up more than […]

Stubenviertel: Time-Honoured Temptation

Stubenviertel: Time-Honoured Temptation

In the middle ages, the hilly streets of the northeast quarter of Vienna’s 1st District – the neighbourhood now encompassed by Rotenturmstrasse, Stubenring and Singerstrasse – were where the gentry would go to the Badestube to bathe. This had nothing to do with Viennese cleanliness. Not only would men and women “bathe” together in the […]

Small-Town Schlossquadrat

Small-Town Schlossquadrat

It may be the cobblestones, or just the fact that houses here are narrower than in the city centre, but at Margaretenplatz in the 5th District, Vienna suddenly feels like a small town. Here it is not unusual for a shop owner to leave her store to ask suspicious passers-by – i.e., journalists taking notes […]

Dreaming up Döbling: Of Ancient Hills and Heuriger

Dreaming up Döbling: Of Ancient Hills and Heuriger

People walk more slowly here. In town they may rush, but at home in Döbling, the journey is its own reward. The 10 communities within the district are green and residential, at points almost bordering on rural. It’s a gateway to the Vienna Woods, skirting the sprawling Alpine foothills, where the city’s close, turn-of-the-century buildings subside […]

Siebensternviertel: Community by Design

Siebensternviertel: Community by Design

In early 20th-century Vienna, Secession artists met in the coffeehouses like Sperl or Café Museum near Karlsplatz; in the early 21st century, Vienna’s artistic set can be found in the coffeehouses of the Siebensternviertel. The neighbourhood had me seriously (for about five minutes) considering chopping my long hair to a face-framing bob like the ones […]

The Two Faces of Vienna’s Bermuda Triangle

The Two Faces of Vienna’s Bermuda Triangle

There may be no place in Vienna that does more of a transformation when the sun goes down than this super-central corner of the 1st District. Ranging up the hill from Morzinplatz, next to Schwedenplatz, along Franz-Josefs-Kai on the Danube Canal, the area encompasses a handful of small streets and stairways up to the Hoher […]

Nibelungenviertel: Walk of The Valkyries

Nibelungenviertel: Walk of The Valkyries

Just behind the pomposity of the Wiener Stadthalle, sandwiched between Hütteldorfer Straße, Gablenzgasse, the Schmelz with its Schrebergärten (small inner city gardening plots), and the famous Viennese Gasthaus Schutzhaus Zukunft, a tiny Grätzl is slowly waking from its beauty sleep: the Nibelungenviertel. Until recently, the neighbourhood seemed to follow a different pace than the bustling […]

The Naschmarkt – Hipster Market Mentality

The Naschmarkt – Hipster Market Mentality

“Kebab, kebab”, the young Turkish man shouts while cutting thin slices from an enormous skewer of meat. Its smell mixes with the odour of exotic spices, cheese, grilled fish and the sweat of thousands of visitors, who – especially now that summer has embraced Vienna – are enjoying the city’s most famous farmers’ market. Originally […]

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