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Dreaming up Döbling: Of Ancient Hills and Heuriger

Dreaming up Döbling: Of Ancient Hills and Heuriger

People walk more slowly here. In town they may rush, but at home in Döbling, the journey is its own reward. The 10 communities within the district are green and residential, at points almost bordering on rural. It’s a gateway to the Vienna Woods, skirting the sprawling Alpine foothills, where the city’s close, turn-of-the-century buildings subside […]

Experiencing Gemütlichkeit at Sirbu

Experiencing Gemütlichkeit at Sirbu

Austrians are known to be gemütlich. At least that’s what we say about ourselves and how we would like to be perceived. Whether or not this is true should be left for others to judge. But if this Gemütlichkeit does in fact exist, it is most likely to be found at one of Vienna’s Heuriger. […]

Am Kahlenberg: The Sky’s the Limit – Literally

As a Grätzl, the Kahlenberg – the “Bald Mountain” that crowns the Wienerwald on Vienna’s western edge – is like no other.  Of course at 484 metres it’s not really a mountain, even for the English, and laughably not by the standards of the Alps. That’s just Wiener Schmäh – a bit of ironic exaggeration […]

Going ‘Heuriger’ Hopping!

Going ‘Heuriger’ Hopping!

It was a warm evening in early June as a friend and I climbed down from the bus at the top of the Kahlenberg, an ancient mountain 484 meters high, in the northeastern foothills of the Alps. Here from the broad terraces of the tourism university Modul, the entire city of Vienna lays spread out […]

Vienna’s Ol’ Time Songfest

Vienna is proud of its obsessions – or are they love affairs? – with music, with nostagia, and most of all, with death. As cabaretist Georg Kreisler sang, “Death must surely be a Viennese, as surely as love is a femme fatale.” Thus the annual celebration of Viennese song, the Wienerlied Festival now in its […]

Heuriger Season!

Traditions emerge out of the elusive soil known as culture, but when backed up with the force of law, they can thrive through centuries. Such is the history of the Heuriger, a Viennese tradition since 1784, when the Emperor Joseph II declared that the Austrian wine growers had the right to sell their own wine […]

Stadt Heuriger Gigerl

Stadt Heuriger Gigerl

In a protected corner of cobblestone lanes closed to cars, Gigerl’s outdoor seating under a wide awning spills onto the street. The hum of voices blends with the buzz of the posh club across the way, and the three or four unpretentious restaurants along the Ballgasse adjoining. The name Gigerl comes from the Austrian word […]

In Vienna Veritas

In Vienna Veritas

Traditions emerge out of the elusive soil known as culture, but when backed up with the force of law, they can thrive through centuries. Such is the history of the Heuriger, a Viennese tradition since 1784, when the Emperor Joseph II declared that the Austrian wine growers had the right to sell their own wine […]

Figls: Glitz & Tradition

Figls: Glitz & Tradition

Stepping off the 38A bus at Neugebauerweg, you can’t help but notice the entrance to Figls, a Wirtshaus that manages to combine the look of a traditional Vienna Heuriger with a sleek, modern club, while somehow retaining a homely atmosphere. Figls is the latest addition to the Figlmüller family’s chain of restaurants, the best known […]

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