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A Roman Holiday

There are many clichés about Rome. First of all, it’s chaos: Nothing gets done; shops and offices are always closed when you need them; drivers stop in the middle of the street while cars are left parked on the sidewalks; and loquacious taxi drivers will drive you all around town to an address you discover […]

Gods and Monsters in Rome

We land in Rome under a clear sky tinted with azure, a warm wind gently caresses the tops of the palm trees, which feels surreal after the damp Vienna cold, and the air smells of ageless stone and water. We hop on a bus taking us into town, glued to the windows as Fiats, Vespas, […]

Subway Ruins

Subway Ruins

In a city where traffic rumbles past the Colosseum and football fans celebrate among the remains of the Circus Maximus, relics of ancient Rome’s glory can suddenly emerge and sometimes butt up against the modern city’s needs. The never-ending struggle between preserving ancient treasures and developing modern infrastructures is moving underground, where archaeologists are investigating […]

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