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Saalbach’s Romantic Mountain Retreat

Saalbach’s Romantic Mountain Retreat

I kicked the new snow off our boots and laid the skis against the dark wood of the Pfefferalm hut. Inside an open fire was crackling in the corner. Some of the wood smoke had escaped the chimney and was spreading a pungent mist across the room. Through the haze I could just make out […]

Regional Branding, Austrian Style

Regional Branding, Austrian Style

A recent tasting of the newly released Single Vineyard (Erste Lagen) wines from the Austrian Traditional Vintners (Österreichische Traditionsweingüter) shows how far the industry has come in profiling and branding Austria’s top sites. The Association, which was formed in 1992 by several wineries from the Kremstal, Kamptal, Wagram and Traisental regions along the Donau and […]

Europe’s Wandering Apprentices, Foreign and Free

Silhouetted against the fog, she seemed to belong to a different time. Still, her small, brimmed hat, the bundles of belongings fastened to the wooden frame she carried on her back, and the crooked walking stick are the perfect introduction to Eva, a “foreign and free” journeywoman. Eva, 28, is a gardener and one of […]

Coffee House of the Future

Coffee House of the Future

Coffee houses are to Vienna what pubs are to London – an indelible part of the city’s culture. They are a part of public space, an extension of the street, an office for some, an oasis for many. They are also a major tourist attraction, playing on their old-world charm of quaint interiors and mannered […]

Book Review: Tim Parks’ Teach Us to Sit Still

Western Minds, Eastern Ways What do you expect a successful British author to do who experiences chronic pains? Keep a stiff upper lip, of course. That is exactly what Tim Parks had been practicing for a long time. Surrounded by friends who admired his bilingual career – the Parks’ had moved to Verona in Northern […]

Forgetting to Remember

Hungarian writer Paul Lendvai called our office the other day looking for a buyer for his entire collection of books in English. He’s moving to a smaller apartment and has to down size.  Which sounded reasonable enough, until I realized he was the third person that month wanting to de-accession a library. In the age […]

Tradition on Tap

Who knows if it’s the sound of the bottle opening, the gurgling rush of frothing liquid it makes when poured, or if it’s simply the golden color that’s so mesmerizing. One thing is for certain – the tradition of great beer, wherever it may be, is captivating. Austria, like any country proud of its brewing […]

A Different Kind of Vienna

Vienna this summer did not always bask under a cloudless sky, but as a place to be, it was a summer paradise of a different kind. On the occasional morning that brought rain, the drizzle stopped almost as soon as it began. When the sun reappeared, it was not an accident, exactly; it was more […]

The Dance of Manners

You approach the Palais Pallavicini in Vienna’s 1st District to the ringing sound of hooves, the suspended gate of a pair of carriage horses, and it is easy to let a century melt away, taking you back to the scenes and courtesies of Habsburg Vienna. As you pass the Spanish Riding School, you may catch […]

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