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Bornholm Holiday: Beaches, Bison and Beer

Bornholm Holiday: Beaches, Bison and Beer

One of the favourite secret vacation localities of the Danes, the little island of Bornholm is a perfect place for discovering true Danish country life, away from fancy Copenhagen tourism. Just three days earlier, we had been in the capital of Denmark, choked by hordes of tourists from all continents, all coming to see the […]

The Faded Glory of Bad Gastein

The Faded Glory of Bad Gastein

An icy breeze was blowing steam sideways across the mountain vista; a curtain of vapour, tinged pink by the red floor lights of the pool. From my perch in the thermal bath, it looked as if a Saharan sandstorm was sweeping across the darkened woods and snowfields of Bad Hofgastein’s Schlossalm ski area. At dusk, […]

Discovering the Kingdoms in the Clouds

Discovering the Kingdoms in the Clouds

In these austere times, it’s refreshing to realise that sometimes the most valuable European travel experiences are also the cheapest – such as trekking across the Alps and staying in mountain refuges. These huts stretch in a long chain from Slovenia and Austria in the east to the Maritime Alps of France in the west. […]

Book Review: Andrzej Stasiuk’s On the Road to Babadag

Book Review: Andrzej Stasiuk’s On the Road to Babadag

Journeys in a Forgotten Europe Tiszaszalka. Răşinari. Székelyföld. The places of Andrzej Stasiuk’s newly translated travel memoir On the Road to Babadag: Travels in the Other Europe are not likely to be familiar to most of his English-language readers, even those well-travelled in the region. The work, like Stasiuk himself, studiously avoids the great cities […]

Slideshow: Revisiting and Reviving the ‘Austrian Riviera’

Slideshow: Revisiting and Reviving the ‘Austrian Riviera’

Harvest of Blood Oranges

The working day doesn’t start too early at La Casa delle Acque, a small organic orange farm at the foot of Mount Etna in Sicily. At around 8 o’clock, long after the sun has lit up the snow on the dome of the great volcano and the first pools of light have highlighted the yellow […]

Walking Hollywood

OK, so three weeks ago, I officially moved to Los Angeles. It is not that I wanted to live in Los Angeles. Or work in movies. I fell in love. With a man who wants to live in Los Angeles. And works in movies. Life has its own plans. For a European, the U.S. is… […]

Last Sausage Before the Equator

An afternoon stroll in balmy Singapore, sunshine tickling our cheeks, feet aching and hunger gnawing at our stomachs. Time for a 4 o’clock Jause. What does one eat in this exotic of pacific probity? Don’t want junk food. But something smells yummy and we follow our noses… when low and behold there stands before us […]

The Year of the Cat: ‘Silvester’ in Vietnam

By rights, this should have been the Year of the Rabbit – that’s what the zodiac calendar says in China, anyway. But in Vietnam, it’s the Year of the Cat. “We didn’t have enough rabbits,” a guide tells us. “But anyway, the characteristics are the same…” This is the Feast of Tet, the New Year […]

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